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Wallingford in Berks County England History and Geography

WALLINGFORD, a borough and market town, having exclusive jurisdiction, though locally in the hundred of Moreton, county of BERKS, 15 miles (N.N.W.) from Reading, and 46 (W. by N.) from London, containing, with the extra-parochial liberty of the Castle, but exclusively of the liberty of Clapcot, which is in the parish of Allhallows, 2093 inhabitants, according to the census of 1821, since which period the population has increased to about 2600. The name is derived from the ancient British word Guallen, or the Roman Vallum, each signifying 'an old fort,' and from a ford over the Thames: subsequently to the Roman invasion, it was converted into a strong fortification by that people, and is supposed to have been the principal station of the Attrebatii. On the arrival of the Saxons, it became one of their principal forts, and continued to be a place of considerable repute, until it was burnt by the Danes, in 1006: from the effects of this calamity it speedily recovered, and, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, had risen to the dignity of a royal prescriptive borough. At the Conquest, William, having arrived with his army, received here the homage of Stigand, Archbishop of Canterbury, and many other prelates and barons. During the civil war between Stephen and the Empress Matilda, the castle was occupied and held for the latter: it was subsequently the place of meeting between John and the barons. The honour, having become vested in the crown, was given by Richard I. to his brother John; and Henry III., on being elected King of the Romans, entertained all the prelates and barons in the castle. Having been subsequently annexed, by act of parliament, to the duchy of Cornwall, on the reversion of these estates to the crown, the castle and manor were granted to Cardinal Wolsey, who conferred them on his then newly-erected college of Christ Church, Oxford; and, in Camden's time, part of the castle was used, as an occasional retreat in time of sickness, by the students of that college: a portion of these buildings, called the 'Priests' Chambers,' has been converted into a malthouse. At the commencement of the parliamentary war, it was repaired and garrisoned for the king, and was not surrendered till nearly the close of the war; and, about four years afterwards, in 1653, it was completely demolished, insomuch that, at present, part of a wall towards the river is all that remains of this ancient and celebrated structure.

The town is situated on the road between Reading and Oxford, and has a remarkably neat and clean appearance: it consists principally of two streets, well paved and lighted with oil, according to the provisions of an act obtained in 1795: the inhabitants are abundantly supplied with water. Across the river Thames, which passes on the eastern side of the town, is a fine stone bridge of several arches, about three hundred yards in length, constructed in 1809, in lieu of a dilapidated structure which was supposed to have been built five centuries ago: there is a fund of £42 per annum for its repair, being a rent-charge on houses, under the management of two bridge-masters chosen annually from the burgesses. Some businessis donein malting, but it is not so extensive as formerly. A line of communication has been opened with Birmingham, Bath, and Bristol, by means of a canal navigation, running into the Thames, by which river coal is brought hither, and corn and flour are conveyed to London and other places. The market is on Friday; and a statute and pleasure fair is held on the 29th of September. By the charter of incorporation, obtained in the reign of James I., and confirmed and enlarged by Charles I., the government is vested in a mayor, high steward, recorder, six aldermen, and eighteen burgesses, or, as they are generally termed, assistants; with a chamberlain, two bailiffs, and two bridge-men, who are annually elected from the burgesses by the mayor; and a town clerk, who is also chosen, by the corporation, from among the burgesses. The mayor, who is also coroner, aldermen, and recorder, are justices of the peace, exercising exclusive jurisdiction. A court of quarter session is held, at which the mayor, or recorder, presides: it was formerly empowered to inflict capital punishment, but its authority is now limited to transportation. In former times, criminals convicted capitally in this borough, for the first time, had their lives spared on certain conditions; and, in the 45th of Henry III., a return made by the jurors declared, that no person belonging to the borough ought to be executed for one offence. The corporation are empowered, by charter, to hold a court for the recovery of small debts; but this right is seldom exercised, though debts to any amount may be recovered by a process from the town clerk. Petty sessions for the division are held every Friday. The freedom of the borough, although vested in the corporation, is not enforced; every individual may engage in business indiscriminately. This borough sends two members to parliament: the elective franchise is in the corporation, and the inhabitants at large paying scot and lot: the number of voters is about three hundred, and the mayor is the returning officer.

Wallingford comprises the parishes of All Hallows, St. Leonard, St. Mary the More, and St. Peter, all in the archdeaconry and diocese of Salisbury. The living of All Hallows' is a sinecure rectory, in the patronage of the Master and Fellows of Pembroke College, Oxford: the church was demolished in 1648. The living of St. Leonard's is a discharged rectory, with the perpetual curacy of Sotwell annexed, rated in the king's books at £7. 12. 6., and in the patronage of the Crown: the church is a very ancient structure, but destitute of claim to architectural description, with the exception of some few Norman remains. The living of St. Mary's the More is a discharged rectory, rated in the king's books at £4, endowed with £600 private benefaction, and £800 royal bounty, and in the patronage of the Crown: the church is a very handsome edifice, situated in the space near the market-house, with a square embattled tower, ornamented with pinnacles, and on which is the figure of an armed knight on horseback, supposed to represent King Stephen; the tower, which bears the date of 1658, is said to have been built with materials from the castle. The living of St. Peter's is a discharged rectory, rated in the king's books at £6. 1. 3., endowed with £600 private benefaction, £400 royal bounty, and £600 parliamentary grant, and in the patronage of W. S. Blackstone, Esq. The church is a very handsome structure, bearing date 1769, with a square tower, surmounted by an elegant spire of Portland stone, supported on pillars and arches, and erected, in 1777, by voluntary subscriptions, to which the learned Sir William Blackstone, who was an inhabitant of the town, and whose remains are deposited in the church, was a liberal contributor. There are places of worship for Baptists, the Society of Friends, Independents, and Wesleyan Methodists. The free school was founded by Walter Bigg, alderman of London, in 1659, by whom it was endowed with £10 per annum, for six boys, who are elected by the aldermen. In 1672, the fraternity of St. John the Baptist, London, now the Merchant Taylors' Company, gave £32. 10. for the erection of a free school, and £2. 10. for the schoolmaster. A school was established, in 1819, for twenty boys and thirty girls, all of whom are educated and clothed: it is supported by voluntary contributions. An infant school, for an unlimited number of children, is held in a handsome brick building, erected by subscription, at a small distance from the town. An almshouse for six poor widows was founded and endowed with £34 per annum, in 1681, by William Angier and Mary his sister; the endowment has been augmented by subsequent benefactions. On Wittenham hill, in this neighbourhood, are some remains of a Roman camp, where numerous coins have been found. Richard de Wallingford, abbot of St. Albans, a celebrated mathematician and mechanic; and John de Wallingford, a monk of that abbey, are supposed to have been natives of this town: the former invented, and presented to the abbey church, an ingenious clock, that shewed not only the course of the sun, moon, and principal stars, but also the ebbing and flowing of the sea. Joan, the fair maid of Kent, and widow of the Black Prince, died here in 1385. Wallingford confers the title of viscount on the Earl of Banbury.

From Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England 1831, courtesy of Databases 4 Sale

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