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Southwold in Suffolk County England History and Geography

SOUTHWOLD, a seaport, borough, market town, and parish, having separate jurisdiction, though locally in the hundred of Blything, county of SUFFOLK, 36 miles (N.E.) from Ipswich, and 104 (N.E.) from London, containing 1676 inhabitants. The ancient names of this place were Suwald, Suwalda, Sudholda, and Southwood, probably derived from an adjacent wood, the western confines still retaining the appellation of Wood's-end Marshes, and Wood's-end Creek. In the year 1659, a dreadful conflagration took place, which in a few hours consumed the town hall, market-house, prison, several other buildings, and two hundred and thirty-eight dwelling-houses, at an estimated loss of more than £40,000; the court baron rolls were all destroyed, and in consequence the copyholders under the corporation became freeholders. Another remarkable event was the memorable sea-fight between the English, under the command of His Royal Highness the Duke of York, and the Dutch under Admiral Ruyter, which took place in Sole bay, to the east of the town, on the 26th of May, 1672, in which, though the former proved victorious, many brave and distinguished officers were slain, among whom was the Earl of Sandwich, second in command. In 1747, the haven, which had become choked up with sand, was cleared out by act of parliament. In 1749, a pier was erected on the north side; and in 1751, another on the south side, by the same authority. The town is pleasantly situated on a hill overlooking the German Ocean, and is rendered peninsular by the sea and a creek, called the Buss creek, which runs into the river Blyth, over which there is a bridge, formerly a drawbridge, leading into the town: it consists principally of one paved street; the houses are mostly well built and of modern appearance, and the inhabitants are well supplied with water from numerous excellent springs. On St. Edmund's, commonly called Gun, Hill, are six eighteen-pounders, presented by His Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, who landed here October 17th, 1745. There was formerly an ancient fort, probably in the possession of the Danes on their invasion of the country in 1010, of which the foss is still discernible. From the nature of its situation and the convenience of the beach, Southwold is admirably adapted for sea-bathing, and has for several years been much resorted to for that purpose: there is a good promenade; also a reading-room, called the Casino, on the Gun Hill, with an assembly-room: races are held annually. In consequence of the encroachments of the sea, a breakwater has been made under Gun Hill cliff, extending upwards of three hundred yards. The trade of the town consists in the home fishery, which employs several small boats; in the preparation and exportation of salt, for which there is a manufactory; and of red herrings, red sprats, and malt: the imports are coal and cinders: the coasting trade is chiefly in timber, lime, wool, and corn. The entrance into the haven is on the south side of the town: they superintendence of it is vested in commissioners, its revenue being about £1400 per annum, which is expended in repairing the piers and haven. The river Blyth is navigable to Halesworth, and, besides the bridge crossing it on the north, there is a ferry to Walberswick. The market is on Thursday, and fairs are held on Trinity-Monday and St. Bartholomew's day, for toys, &c.

The first charter of incorporation was granted by Henry VII., and confirmed, with extended privileges, by Henry VIII. and subsequent sovereigns: that under which it is now governed was granted by William and Mary. The government is vested in two bailiffs, a high steward, town clerk, coroner, and other officers. The bailiffs and the inferior officers are elected annually on the 6th of December: the bailiffs and high steward are justices of the peace, with exclusive jurisdiction, and hold regular sessions for the trial of felons and other offenders. A court of record, for the recovery of debts to any amount, is held every Monday, at which the bailiffs and the high steward preside. Here is also a court of admiralty, of which the bailiffs are the judges, its jurisdiction extending not further than the limits of the town, although those of the port reach from Covehithe to Thorpe-ness. The guildhall was erected by the corporation, at an expense of £800; and the old gaol having been taken down, a new one was built, in the year 1819. The living is a perpetual curacy, annexed to the vicarage of Reydon, in the archdeaconry of Suffolk, and diocese of Norwich, endowed with £400 private benefaction, £600 royal bounty, and £1000 parliamentary grant. The church, dedicated to St. Edmund, and completed about 1460, is a very elegant structure, in the later style of English architecture, with a large and lofty tower, surmounted with a spire, and constructed with freestone intermixed with flint of various colours. At each angle of the east end of the chancel is a low hexagonal embattled tower, decorated with crosses: the south porch is very elegant, and above the clerestory roof is a light open lantern: the ceiling is handsomely painted: the interior was, in former times, very richly ornamented, as appears by the carved work of the rood-loft, screen, and the seats of the magistrates. On the south side of the churchyard are three gravestones, in memory of Thomas Gardner, the historian of Dunwich and Southwold, and his two wives and daughter, on which are some singular inscriptions. The church has lately received an addition of one hundred free sittings, towards defraying the expense of which the Incorporated Society for building and enlarging churches and chapels contributed £50. There are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and Wesleyan Methodists. On a hill, called Eye cliff, at a small distance from the town, are vestiges of ancient encampments, and, in many parts, of circular tents, now called Fairy hills, most probably of Danish origin. Fossil remains of the elephant and mammoth are frequently found in the cliffs.

From Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England 1831, courtesy of Databases 4 Sale

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