Brighthelmstone in Sussex County England History and Geography

BRIGHTHELMSTONE, a sea-port, market-town and parish, in the hundred of WHALESBONE, rape of LEWES, county of SUSSEX, 30 miles (E.) from Chichester, and 54 (S.) from London, containing 24,429 inhabitants. Thisplace, in the Saxon language termed Brighthelmestun, in Domesday-book Bristlemeston, and now, by contraction, generally Brighton, is supposed to have taken its name from the Saxon bishop, Brighthelme, who resided in the vicinity. It was anciently a fortified town of considerable importance, and by some antiquaries is supposed to have been the place where C?sar landed on his invasion of Britain: this opinion has probably been suggested by the quantity of Roman coins found in the town, the vast number of human bones, of extraordinary size, which has been discovered for nearly a mile along the coast westward, and the traces of lines and intrenchments in the immediate vicinity, bearing strong marks of Roman construction. From a fortified town, it was, by successive encroachments of the sea, reduced to an inconsiderable village; and soon after the Conquest was inhabited principally by fishermen: it was frequently assaulted by the French, who, in the reign of Henry VIII., plundered and burnt it. As a protection against their future attacks, fortifications were erected, which were subsequently repaired and enlarged by Queen Elizabeth, who built a wall with four lofty gates of freestone for its better defence. After the fatal battle of Worcester, Charles II. retired in privacy to this place, whence he embarked for France. In the years 1665 and 1669, an irruption of the sea destroyed a considerable part of the town, and inundated a large tract of land adjoining; and in 1703, 1705, and 1706, the fortifications were undermined, and many houses destroyed by tremendous storms and inundations, that threatened its annihilation. In the reign of George II., Brighton began to rise into consideration as a bathing-place, from the writings of Dr. Russel, a resident physician, who recommended the sea-water here, as containing a greater proportion of salt than that of other places, and therefore more efficacious in the cure of scrophulous and glandular complaints: its progress was accelerated by the discovery of a chalybeate spring, in 1760, the water of which being successfully administered as a tonic, in cases of infirm or debilitated constitutions, made it the resort of invalids from all parts of the country; and it ultimately obtained the very high rank which it now enjoys as a fashionable watering-place, and its grandeur and importance, under the auspices of his present Majesty, who, in 1784, erected a magnificent palace here, wherein he occasionally resides.

The town is pleasantly situated on an eminence rising gently from a level called the Steyne, supposed to have been the line of the ancient Stayne-street, or Roman road from Arundel to Dorking, and adjoining a bay of the English channel, formed by the promontories of Beachy-head and Worthing-point: it extends for two miles from East to West, and is sheltered by a range of hills on the North and North-east, and by the downs on the West. Its form, including the more recent additions, is quadrangular: the streets, which are spacious, and intersect each other at right angles, are well paved, and lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are plentifully supplied with water. The houses in the older part of the town are dissimilar in form and of inelegant appearance; those in the modern part are more uniform, and many of them elegant: these are chiefly situated on the cliffs, commanding extensive views of the sea, and comprise on the eastern cliff, the royal Crescent, the buildings on the new Steyne, the Marine Parade (extending from the New to the Old Steyne), the Pavilionparade, and the houses on the Old Steyne (including two splendid hotels and a handsome library); and on the western cliff, Cannon-place, (near which a magnificent hotel is now being erected), Bedford-square, Regency-square, and Brunswick-square and terrace, ranges of elegant houses, in front of which last is an esplanade, an extensive and fashionable promenade. On the road from Lewes are, Hanover-crescent, the area of which is tastefully laid out, Richmond-terrace, the buildings on the North Steyne; and to the East, Dorset-gardens, with a pleasure-ground in front, in which are two octagonal temples: on the London-road are some neat houses in the cottage style, York-place, and St. George's place, a handsome row of houses with circular fronts. Kemptown, to the east, built by Thomas Read Kemp, Esq., M.P., is a splendid range of buildings, occupying three sides of a spacious quadrangle, to the extremity of each of which, a row of houses of similar appearance has been added: from the area, which is elegantly disposed into pleasure-grounds, is a descent through au arch, leading down to the beach. The Pavilion, begun in 1784, and finally completed in 1827, by his present Majesty, is a magnificent structure in the oriental style of architecture, on the model of the Kremlin at Moscow: toward the sea, the view of which is excluded by the buildings called Castle-square, it has a handsome stone front, of two hundred feet in length, with a circular building in the centre, surmounted by a lofty dome supported on pillars; and connected with it on the West is the royal chapel, consecrated in 1822, and capable of accommodating one thousand persons. Behind the Pavilion are the royal stables, a circular structure appropriately designed in the Arabian style, surmounted with a dome of glass, which reflecting the rays of a meridian sun, produces an extraordinary and singularly beautiful effect: on the East side of the quadrangle, in which they are situated, is a racquet-court, and on the West a riding-house.

The hot and cold sea-water, vapour, and shower baths have been constructed with every regard to the convenience of the invalid; those at the New Steyne hotel are supplied with water raised from the sea to the height of six hundred feet, by an engine, and conveyed through a tunnel excavated in the rock. The chalybeate spring, about half a mile west of the old church, is enclosed within a neat building in the cottage style: the water, which deposits an ochrous sediment, has been found very beneficial in restoring infirm habits, and is in high repute; and the spa affords every variety of mineral water artificially prepared. The hotels, inns, and lodging-houses are in every gradation of style, from the most sumptuous and luxurious elegance to the simpler accommodations of domestic privacy, adapted to the rank and habits of the numerous visitors; and the various shops are richly stored with every article of luxury or use. There are four public libraries, replete with choice works of every description: assemblies are held at the hotels, in which are elegant and spacious rooms, superbly fitted up. The theatre, a handsome building erected in 1807, is open for the season, during the recess of the London patent theatres, and has the assistance of the best metropolitan performers. The races, which continue for four or five days, are held on the downs, the first week in August: the course is fenced in and kept in proper order. The royal gardens, to the North of the town, including a spacious cricket-ground, are appropriated to various amusements: the park and the South Downs afford pleasant and extensive rides. The old Steyne is adorned with a fine statue of his present Majesty, by Chantrey; and comprises the North and South Parades and several other pleasant walks: the promenade commences after the heat of the day has subsided, and continues till night, the royal military band being occasionally in attendance.

The suspension chain pier, constructed in 1821, at an expense of £30,000, under the superintendence of Captain Brown, R.N., to facilitate the landing and embarkation, forms also a favourite promenade, one thousand two hundred feet in length and fourteen feet in breadth: on the pier-head, which, in a transverse direction, is sixty feet long and twenty feet broad, are seats protected from the rain and shaded from the sun by a large awning: the foundation of this noble and ingenious structure consists of massive piers formed by clusters of piles driven ten feet into the rock, over which are carried strong chains of iron, securely fastened at one end to the shore, and at the other to the pier-head, having a dip of eighteen feet between the piers: from these chains descend perpendicular rods of iron connected by bars, and firmly bolted into the platform suspended beneath; below the pier-head are tiers of galleries, with flights of steps for the convenience of landing or embarking at any state of the tide. The esplanade, one thousand two hundred feet long and forty feet wide, connects the chain-pier with the Steyne. Among the many recent improvements is the formation of a carriage road over the beach, thus connecting the cliff road with the marine parade. There are barracks for infantry in the town, and for cavalry at the distance of a mile on the road to Lewes. The artillery barracks on the western cliff, where there is a battery of heavy ordnance for the defence of the beach, are now used as dwelling-houses: a wall has been raised on the eastern side of the town, to protect it from the encroachment of the sea.

Numerous packets and steam-vessels sail from this place to Dieppe, whence the route to Paris is not only ninety miles shorter than that from Calais, but passes through Rouen and a finer part of the country; and a few vessels discharge their cargoes of coal and light goods on the beach. The principal branch of trade is that of the fishery, in which about one hundred boats are employed: the mackarel season commences in April, and the herring season in October: soles, turbot, skate, and other flat fish, are also taken in great quantities, and sent to the London market. The making of nets and tackle for the fishcrmen, the materials of which are brought from Bridport, affords employment to a portion of the inhabitants. In the intercourse between Brighton and London, numerous coaches are employed daily. The market was established by act of parliament, in 1773: the principal market is on Thursday, but there are daily markets for the supply of the inhabitants: the fairs are on Holy Thursday and September 4th. A new and commodious market house was built on the site of the old workhouse, in 1829. The town is within the jurisdiction of the county magistrates, who hold meetings every Monday and Thursday; but the direction of police and parochial affairs is entrusted, under an act of parliament, to a corporate body of one hundred and twelve commissioners, who are elected by the inhabitants paying scot and lot from among themselves, and who go out septennially by rotation; they appoint a town clerk, surveyor, collectors of tolls and duties, police officers, criers, and watchmen: a constable, eight headboroughs, and other officers are chosen annually at the court leet for the hundred. A town-hall more suited to the character and importance of the place than the former, which has been taken down, is now being rebuilt on the site of the old market-house.

The living is a vicarage, consolidated with that of West Bletchington, in the archdeaconry of Lewes, and diocese of Chichester, rated in the king's books at £20. 2. 1½., and in the patronage of the King and the Bishop of Chichester alternately. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a spacious ancient structure, partly in the decorated, and partly in the later style of English architecture, standing on the summit of a hill, one hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, and having a square tower, which serves as a land-mark to mariners; within are, a fine screen of richly carved oak, and an antique font brought from Normandy in the reign of William the Conqueror, embellished with sculptured representations of the last supper, and of the miracles of our Saviour. St. Peter's is an elegant structure in the later style of English architecture, with a square embattled tower, erected in 1827, by grant from the parliamentary commissioners, and containing one thousand one hundred and nineteen free sittings; it is a chapel of ease to the church of St. Nicholas. The chapel-royal in North-street, the chapels of St. James and St. Mary in St. James' street, St. Margaret's in Cannon-place, St. George's near Kemp-town, and Trinity chapel in Ship-street, are all connected with the establishment. There are two places of worship for Particular Baptists, three for Independents, one each for the Society of Friends, Methodists, Scotch Seceders, and Huntingtonians, besides a chapel belonging to the Trustees of the late Countess of Huntingdon, Bethel chapel in connection with the mariners friend society, a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Synagogue. There are numerous free schools for the instruction of poor children, the principal of which are the school in Gardener-street, for clothing and educating girls, founded in 1811, and endowed with £7100, by Swan Downer, Esq.; the blue-coat school in Ship-street, for clothing and instructing boys, to which William Grimmet, Esq., in 1768, bequeathed £1932. 10. 10.; the school near Russel-street, for the children of fishermen; the orphan school, on the western road; the National, Infant, and Sunday-schools, supported by subscription, and to which the Countess of Gower, Mr. George Beach, Mr. Anthony Springett, and others, have been severally benefactors; and the Union charity school in Middle-street, supported by the several congregations of dissenters. The county hospital, a spacious and commodious building, on an eminence near the East Downs, is well regulated, and liberally supported by subscription: the dispensary is supported by annual subscription, and there are also six almshouses for aged widows. On White Hawke Hill, near the race course, on which a signal-house has been erected, are the remains of an encampment, having a narrow entrance on the north, where it is defended by a double intrenchment; and on Hollingsbury Hill, a second station for signals, about two miles North of the town, are vestiges of a large circular encampment, in which are several tumuli. In 1750, an urn containing one thousand silver denarii, of the emperors from Antoninus Pius to Philip, was found near the town; and in the immediate vicinity are numerous remains of altars and other Druidical monuments.

From Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England 1831, courtesy of Databases 4 Sale