Barf Diet For Dogs - Not As Gross As It Sounds!

Are you just starting to research the BARF diet for dogs – also known as “bones and raw food” or the RAW diet? It can be confusing – I remember asking TONS of questions when I first started. How do you know how much to feed? WHAT do you feed? Can you mix the BARF diet with processed food? How long does it take to prepare the raw food? How much does it cost to buy all the BARF products necessary? Should you feed raw meat and vegetables? Well, on the last question, only you can decide what’s right for your dog, but I’ll answer the rest of your questions as best I can.

How do you know how much to feed?

It really depends on the weight of your dog. Most people recommend 2-5% of their body weight. Just make sure you know your dog’s weight before starting, and then watch their weight and adjust depending if they gain/lose/maintain.

WHAT do you feed?

Raw meaty bones, like chicken necks and backs for example. Muscle meat which has no bones. Organ meat, like lungs, liver, kidneys, etc. Some people also include raw vegetables.

Can you mix the BARF diet with processed food?

It’s not recommended as processed food, or kibble, is digested in about 10-12 hours, and raw food in about 4-6. This can lead to serious health problems. That being said, some people do it quite successfully – but I wouldn’t.

How long does it take to prepare the raw food?

If you buy pre-prepared BARF for your dog, it only takes the time to defrost and put in their bowl. If you prefer the DIY (do it yourself) method, this would depend on what you’re serving and to how many dogs. Most people recommend pre-packaging once a week in the serving sizes necessary for your dog. You could probably safely count on a half hour per dog, less if you can get your butcher to do some of the cutting for you.

How much does it cost to buy all the BARF products necessary?

This would also depend on whether you’re going with the DIY or buying the packaged food. DIY usually requires hunting for bargains and can be time consuming. What I prefer to do (with only 2 dogs) is buy my BARF pre-packaged from a reputable company and I serve that. It can be more expensive, but with our busy lives, I don’t mind paying a few bucks more. Visit our website, www.a1-dog-info.com/barf-diet-for-dogs.htm for more information.

About the Author

Tara Pearce is the author and webmaster of A1-Dog-Info.com. Please visit us for all kinds of information about dog food, toys, health, books, supplies and clothes.

www.a1-dog-info.com

Related Information of Interest:

Puppy Training
Puppies need to go to the bathroom after they play, chew, drink, eat or sleep. Start by putting them on a leash and tethering them to you. That way you can be aware of them when they start sniffing the ground (usually a cue the puppy needs to go potty). Pick them up and carry them outside. When they go potty, tell them "good potty" and give a cookie as a reward. Do not let your puppy off leash until they have finished going so they get into the habit of going potty, then playing. Many puppies will want to go outside just to play if you let them off leash first.

What if my puppy has an accident?
He will. Do not punish your puppy though. If you catch your puppy in the act then clap your hands or pick them up - this will make your puppy stop going. Get him outside FAST and let him finish up out there. Reward him for going outside. Clean up the mess with petzorb which will remove the odor completely.
Do NOT rub their nose in it, swat them with a newspaper, or isolate your puppy. It will only teach them to not go in front of you.

If your puppy is going frequently in the house you are probably not supervising them enough. Watch and learn their cues. If you feel you are watching and your puppy isn't getting it you can always have them checked for a Urinary tract infection.

If your puppy piddles when you greet them, this could be submissive urination. This would be a problem that is usually cured by ignoring the behavior and letting your puppy calm down before touching them when you first see them.

This article not only applies to puppies, but it is how you should train a dog of any age. If you can't supervise your dog, please put them in a crate to help curb accidents. Remember, dogs go where they go most!

This can be a trying time, so have patience and you will get through it.

About the Author

Amy Dunphy, CPDT is the owner and operator of the www.dogtrainersearch.comDog Trainer Search

7 Simple ways to safe Guard your dog this summer!
If you have a hard time in summer imagine how it must feel under a fur coat! here are some simple tips to help your dog beat the heat.

1) Bob The Hair:
If you have a shaggy dog like a pomeranian, Pekinese or any such variation then listen up. Your dog needs a hair cut. The hair should be cut with scissors and not shaved. Do not cut around the whiskers but you can carefully trim around the eyes.The less hair on your dog the cooler he will keep. If you have a short haired dog no need for a trim.

2) Play it cool: Food can be lighter and given before it gets hot in the morning and after it cools down in the evening.Depending on the dogs normal diet, reduce or entirely eliminate meat. Replace with soya, mashed or cooked with meat flavour. When a dog is panting give ice to lick.

3) walk on the mild side:
Walks should be taken early and then again after sundown. Don't encourage chasing, fetching games too much.

4) Cool it: If you enjoy airconditioning so does your dog.If you have a cooled space share it with your pooch.

5) No closed encounters: Never leave dogs in a completely closed space. If your dog is home, Leave on the fan. In a car, leave the window partially open.

6) Let it all hang out: Dogs sweat from their tongues so never tie or muzzle the mouth in the summer. Whilst giving medical treatment see if you can hold the head rather than tying the mouth. If you have to tie the mouth be sure to release as quickly as possible.

7) Do not bathe your dog more than once a month. Soap/ Cleansers strip their skin of natural oils and lead to skin irritation. when dirty you can simply towel dry with a damp towel.

About the Author

Venkata Ramana is a Dog Lover since childhood. Visit his www.dogs-now.com/go/Boxer Dog website and discover how you can make boxer dog the happiest, loving dog alive, Running healthily with you.

Boxer's and Heartworms
It is surprising how many people are still confused about heartworms and the effects that a heartworm can have on
your Boxer.

First lets look at what heartworms are and how your dog can become infected.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes into the dog’s blood stream. The immature heartworms called microfilaria
travel through the blood stream.

The microfilaria settle into the heart chambers and major pulmonary blood vessels. This causes a blockage of the
blood flow and pathological changes to the surrounding tissues.

This blockage happens when the larvae grow into adult worms. An adult female heartworm can grow up to fourteen
inches and can live as long as five years.

A female heartworm can produce thousands of microfilariae, which is transmitted into a mosquito when it bites an
infected dog, and subsequently injected into the next dog that that mosquito dines on.

What Are The Signs That A Dog May Have Heartworms?

Usually the first system is weight loss. The dogs’ hair may become dull and brittle.

The infected dog also may tier easily.

A persistent coughs and or labored breathing.

In more progressed cases victims may vomit blood from ruptured lungs.

If the disease is not prevented or caught in time the result will be a slow painful death from congestive heart
failure.

What Do I Do If My Boxer Is Infected?

Treatment is available but it can cost hundreds of dollars, and may be ineffective depending on the degree of
infestation.

The best defense against heartworms is routine checkups with your vet. Giving your dog heartworm medication once
a month easily prevents heartworms.

Warning: You Must Have Your Dog Tested For Heartworms Before Starting Heartworm Medication!

About the Author

je Dunn has published several books on dogs and has free information all about dog training, health, and care at: www.boxerdogs-1.com/Boxer_Dogs.html Boxer Health Tips

Body Language Before Dog Bites
Dear Adam:

After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?

Thanks,
Mark.

Dear Mark:

It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:

1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.

2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.

There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at:
tinyurl.com/4efaq