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Page and site © 2008-2012 by Andrew J. Morris All Rights Reserved
all contributed content copyrighted by the contributing author
Notice: While much of the content on this site comes from free reprint sources, not ALL articles are available for re-use. Please contact the author for permission before reprinting any content.
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An Amazing Statistic
No Symptoms but Trouble on the Horizon I was reading a book the other day about hip dysplasia in dogs. Before going further, I should add that this applies to cats as well. The article was written by a veterinarian and it had something very important to say about this painful condition.
An incredible 65-70% of young puppies display hip dysplasia when screened with an X-ray. That includes young pups that are not demonstrating symptoms; with no lameness or other symptoms of pain that would be visible.
Now, this number is staggering when you consider that this veterinarian was talking about puppies less than one year old.
What is Hip Dysplasia? Hip dysplasia is basically a "ball and socket" kind of condition. In short, the joint does not fit right or it "pops" out of line. A cat or a dog may be born with this condition; or, it may result from activity and stress. Veterinarians face several different scenarios here. As I have said in previous articles this is a condition that larger breed dogs are prone to developing. However, this veterinarian was describing all young puppies he had studied.
The more fundamental question is this. If young animals have this condition, it generally worsens. Even though they are not demonstrating symptoms this early in life as it progresses, pain and disability are inevitable.
Working on the Problem Now For an adult pet that already has symptoms, many of those who read this column are doing what I recommend. They are using a safe and effective approach by using a high-quality liquid glucosamine formula. (I have already cautioned about the use of some remedies made available by veterinarians.)
So, what should you do? For those who have younger pets, why wait? Do you really need the expense of an x-ray to make a decision about this? Of course not.
By nature, pets are playful and active. The eventual consequence is that they will develop joint pain as a result of trauma, aging, or both.
A Simple Solution Be proactive now. As adults, many of us wish we had done more to care for our joints earlier in life. Most of us take vitamins and minerals as supplements and the smart consumer is using a liquid glucosamine of the highest quality.
The cost of the best liquid formulas is low and is given to pets based on body weight. For smaller animals, the cost is negligible compared to the potential for problems down the road. For a pet that weighs 10-20 pounds, we are talking about pennies.
My suggestion is to use a high-quality liquid glucosamine for maintenance early on. As that article indicated, the number of pets with hip dysplasia is very high even with no symptoms being displayed. There is no reason to wait until your pet is in pain and suffering.
About the Author
JR Rogers is the owner of Synflex America Inc. makers of www.activexamerica.comSyn-flex, a premium glucosamine arthritis formula for humans and household pets.
The author's statements have not been evaluated by the FDA and are not provided to diagnose or to suggest that liquid glucosamine and chondroitin will treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
Related Information of Interest:
A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For S I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.
The funny thing about this house is that--when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.
Well, practically every other house I've ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right side--or at least on the same side as the sink.
And I'll be a monkey's uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I've walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn't instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.
This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a command--you continue to say, "come" and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.
I want your dog to be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic response--just like turning to the right instead of the left, to turn on the bathroom light.
As I've already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we're animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.
Just like our dogs.
About the Author
Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: www.dogproblems.com
A Funny True Life Dog Story This is the story of my dog called Shandy. He was my favourite pet and he was very lively, lots of fun and very obedient. His main passion in life was to be taken for a long walk, culminating with a big run out in his favourite park.
I would try to take him on this walk everyday, weather permitting. The park itself was about three miles away from our house. To reach the park we had to cross a number of busy roads, however he would never pull or misbehave. He knew where we were heading and seemingly did not want to rock the boat and risk been taken home before he reached his dream destination.
At the park itself I would throw a ball and he would chase it and fetch it back to me.
At this stage I was living at home with my parents, however aged twenty two, I decided to rent my own bungalow near the coast in Devon. This was nearly two hundred miles away from my parents in home in Birmingham. This obviously meant I was no longer in the position to take Shandy on his walk.
I spoke to my parent, who reassured me that they would continue to take him on the walks.
Two weeks after I had left, I had a phone call from my mother. She was panicking, stating that Shandy had managed to escape from the back garden and that she could not find him. She insisted that she had been looking for hours but that there had been no sign of him.
I was quite worried and thought about where he may have gone to. "Have you been taking him on his walks to the park everyday?" I asked. She replied: "Most days" I asked her to try at the park, telling her that he loves that park etc. "He would not be there, its miles away." She said. I again asked her to try there. Luckily he was there quite happily sniffing around, unaware of the panic he had caused.
About the Author
Stephen Hill has a couple of websites at www.lasik-laser-surgery.co.uk and at www.stutter-stuttering.com.
A Good Tip For Dogs With Itchy Skin Now that summer is in full swing, many dogs are experiencing dry skin and excessive itchiness. I know that my dog, "Forbes," certainly has been! Of course, the first thing you'll want to rule out is fleas. But barring fleas, I've found that the best way to alleviate itching is to:
Splash approximately 2 Tablespoons of either vegetable oil or canola oil in your dog's food. The additional fat will give your dog's coat a soft, shiny look and will help alleviate dry skin and itching. You can also try an over-the-counter product you can get at most pet stores called, "Lipiderm," which works pretty much the same, but costs a bit more. Something else you might try: One of my newsletter subscribers writes, "Best thing for itchy skin is lemons. Slice a couple of lemons in a litre of water and boil it. Let it cool down for a day then you can spray it on. Works wonders and is cheap."
About the Author
Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at: tinyurl.com/4efaq
Body Language Before Dog Bites Dear Adam:
After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?
Thanks, Mark.
Dear Mark:
It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:
1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.
2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.
There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.
To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
About the Author
Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at: tinyurl.com/4efaq
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