American Bulldog Complete Profile

Key Facts:

Size: Large
Height: 48 - 71 cm (19 - 28 inches)
Weight: 30 - 58 kg (65 - 130 lb)
Life Span: 12 years
Grooming: Minimal
Exercise: Demanding
Feeding: Medium
Temperament: Fearless & confident
Country of Origin: United States
AKC Group: Not registered
Other Names: Old Country Bulldog

Temperament:
The American Bulldog is confident, gentle, fearless, determined and protective. American Bulldogs should not be overly aggressive with other dogs depsite their self-confidence and bravery. These dogs genuinely love children and have strong protective instincts towards their handler and family. To prevent American Bulldogs from becoming overly protective or dominant they need to be socialized with a variety of animals, people and situations during puppyhood. They tend to be reserved towards strangers and make excellent watchdogs and guard dogs. American Bulldogs make truly devoted and loving pets when they receive proper training and socialization from an early age.

Grooming:
American Bulldogs don't need much grooming except when the coat is shedding. During these times the coat should be brushed regularly with a firm bristle brush to remove the dead hairs.

Exercise:
American Bulldogs are extremely energetic and need plenty of exercise. They enjoy long walks, jogging, playing catch or participating in agility trials. If American Bulldogs receive adequate daily exercise they should be calm when indoors.

History:
In the 1800s a number of European immigrants brought the original type of Bulldog from England to the United States. These Bulldogs had been used for bull baiting in England until this brutal sport became illegal. As a result these dogs disappeared from Britain and made their way to America with working class immigrants. These dogs were used to work with livestock, but almost became extinct by the end of World War II. It was John Johnson, Alan Scott and some other dedicated breeders who managed to revive this breed and develop the American Bulldog from them.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Sturdy, athletic, powerful, muscular and hardy.
Colour: Any colour, colour pattern, or combination of colours is acceptable, except for solid black, solid blue, and tricolor (white with patches of black and tan).
Coat: Short, close, and stiff to touch.
Tail: Set low, tapering and can either be natural or docked (a natural tail is preferred).
Ears: Set high, of medium size and may be dropped, semi-pricked or rose-shaped. The ears may be cropped but natural ears are preferred.
Body: The chest is deep and moderately wide with well sprung ribs. The back is broad and muscular with the topline slightly declining downwards. The loin is short, broad, and slightly arched, blending into a moderately sloping croup. The flank is moderately tucked up and firm.

Additional Comments:

The American Bulldog is higher on the leg and more agile than the English Bulldog. Some of these dogs are reportedly able to leap six feet or more into the air.
The American Bulldog should not be confused with uniquely different breeds such as the American Staffordshire Terrier or the American Pit Bull Terrier.

Related Information of Interest:

A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For S
I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.

The funny thing about this house is that--when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.

Well, practically every other house I've ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right side--or at least on the same side as the sink.

And I'll be a monkey's uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I've walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn't instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.

This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a command--you continue to say, "come" and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.

I want your dog to be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic response--just like turning to the right instead of the left, to turn on the bathroom light.

As I've already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we're animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.

Just like our dogs.

About the Author

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: www.dogproblems.com

A Funny True Life Dog Story
This is the story of my dog called Shandy. He was my favourite pet and he was very lively, lots of fun and very obedient. His main passion in life was to be taken for a long walk, culminating with a big run out in his favourite park.

I would try to take him on this walk everyday, weather permitting. The park itself was about three miles away from our house. To reach the park we had to cross a number of busy roads, however he would never pull or misbehave. He knew where we were heading and seemingly did not want to rock the boat and risk been taken home before he reached his dream destination.

At the park itself I would throw a ball and he would chase it and fetch it back to me.

At this stage I was living at home with my parents, however aged twenty two, I decided to rent my own bungalow near the coast in Devon. This was nearly two hundred miles away from my parents in home in Birmingham. This obviously meant I was no longer in the position to take Shandy on his walk.

I spoke to my parent, who reassured me that they would continue to take him on the walks.

Two weeks after I had left, I had a phone call from my mother. She was panicking, stating that Shandy had managed to escape from the back garden and that she could not find him. She insisted that she had been looking for hours but that there had been no sign of him.

I was quite worried and thought about where he may have gone to. "Have you been taking him on his walks to the park everyday?" I asked. She replied: "Most days" I asked her to try at the park, telling her that he loves that park etc. "He would not be there, its miles away." She said. I again asked her to try there. Luckily he was there quite happily sniffing around, unaware of the panic he had caused.

About the Author

Stephen Hill has a couple of websites at www.lasik-laser-surgery.co.uk and at www.stutter-stuttering.com.

Body Language Before Dog Bites
Dear Adam:

After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?

Thanks,
Mark.

Dear Mark:

It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:

1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.

2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.

There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at:
tinyurl.com/4efaq

Boxer's and Heartworms
It is surprising how many people are still confused about heartworms and the effects that a heartworm can have on
your Boxer.

First lets look at what heartworms are and how your dog can become infected.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes into the dog’s blood stream. The immature heartworms called microfilaria
travel through the blood stream.

The microfilaria settle into the heart chambers and major pulmonary blood vessels. This causes a blockage of the
blood flow and pathological changes to the surrounding tissues.

This blockage happens when the larvae grow into adult worms. An adult female heartworm can grow up to fourteen
inches and can live as long as five years.

A female heartworm can produce thousands of microfilariae, which is transmitted into a mosquito when it bites an
infected dog, and subsequently injected into the next dog that that mosquito dines on.

What Are The Signs That A Dog May Have Heartworms?

Usually the first system is weight loss. The dogs’ hair may become dull and brittle.

The infected dog also may tier easily.

A persistent coughs and or labored breathing.

In more progressed cases victims may vomit blood from ruptured lungs.

If the disease is not prevented or caught in time the result will be a slow painful death from congestive heart
failure.

What Do I Do If My Boxer Is Infected?

Treatment is available but it can cost hundreds of dollars, and may be ineffective depending on the degree of
infestation.

The best defense against heartworms is routine checkups with your vet. Giving your dog heartworm medication once
a month easily prevents heartworms.

Warning: You Must Have Your Dog Tested For Heartworms Before Starting Heartworm Medication!

About the Author

je Dunn has published several books on dogs and has free information all about dog training, health, and care at: www.boxerdogs-1.com/Boxer_Dogs.html Boxer Health Tips