Alaskan Malamute Complete Profile

Key Facts:

Size: Giant
Height: 58 – 71 cm (23 – 28 inches)
Weight: 38 – 56 kg (85 – 125 lb)
Life Span: 13 years
Grooming: Medium
Exercise: Demanding
Feeding: Demanding
Temperament: Sociable & loyal
Country of Origin: North America (Alaska)
AKC Group: Working

Temperament:
The Alaskan Malamute is dignified, friendly and affectionate. Alaskan Malamutes are not one-man dogs and are friendly to all. They are intelligent and able to be trained for a variety of jobs, such as guide dogs. Alaskan Malamute's make very loyal and devoted companions, but can be aggressive towards other dogs. Alaskan Malamutes have tremendous strength and stamina and therefore require an owner with experience and strength to apply the brakes.

Grooming:
The coat of the Alaskan Malamute does not require much in the way of grooming. During moulting it is best to use a coarse comb with a double row of teeth to remove dead hairs.

Exercise:
They require a great deal of exercise on a daily basis. Alaskan Malamute's need to stay on a lead unless they are firmly under control as they're liable to run off.

History:
Alaskan Malamutes got their name from a native tribe in the Artic called that Mahlemuts. Their origin is rather obscure, but it is generally believed that they have been with the eskimos for two to three thousand years. The Alaskan Indians found Alaskan Malamutes invaluable for their ability in droving, herding, hunting and hauling heavy sleds.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Hardy, compact and well-built.
Colour: Usually light grey or black and white.
Coat: The outercoat is thick and coarse and the undercoat is woolly, dense and oily.
Tail: Full and furry – carried over the back in a curved shape.
Ears: Small, upright and triangular.
Body: Powerful, well-developed, deep chest, straight back sloping gently to the hips with a very muscular loin.

Additional Comments:

Alaskan Malamutes are delightful and challenging with their extreme strength and stamina. They require training from early puppyhood to be controllable in a household situation.

Related Information of Interest:

Body Language Before Dog Bites
Dear Adam:

After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?

Thanks,
Mark.

Dear Mark:

It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:

1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.

2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.

There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at:
tinyurl.com/4efaq

7 Simple ways to safe Guard your dog this summer!
If you have a hard time in summer imagine how it must feel under a fur coat! here are some simple tips to help your dog beat the heat.

1) Bob The Hair:
If you have a shaggy dog like a pomeranian, Pekinese or any such variation then listen up. Your dog needs a hair cut. The hair should be cut with scissors and not shaved. Do not cut around the whiskers but you can carefully trim around the eyes.The less hair on your dog the cooler he will keep. If you have a short haired dog no need for a trim.

2) Play it cool: Food can be lighter and given before it gets hot in the morning and after it cools down in the evening.Depending on the dogs normal diet, reduce or entirely eliminate meat. Replace with soya, mashed or cooked with meat flavour. When a dog is panting give ice to lick.

3) walk on the mild side:
Walks should be taken early and then again after sundown. Don't encourage chasing, fetching games too much.

4) Cool it: If you enjoy airconditioning so does your dog.If you have a cooled space share it with your pooch.

5) No closed encounters: Never leave dogs in a completely closed space. If your dog is home, Leave on the fan. In a car, leave the window partially open.

6) Let it all hang out: Dogs sweat from their tongues so never tie or muzzle the mouth in the summer. Whilst giving medical treatment see if you can hold the head rather than tying the mouth. If you have to tie the mouth be sure to release as quickly as possible.

7) Do not bathe your dog more than once a month. Soap/ Cleansers strip their skin of natural oils and lead to skin irritation. when dirty you can simply towel dry with a damp towel.

About the Author

Venkata Ramana is a Dog Lover since childhood. Visit his www.dogs-now.com/go/Boxer Dog website and discover how you can make boxer dog the happiest, loving dog alive, Running healthily with you.

Boxer's and Heartworms
It is surprising how many people are still confused about heartworms and the effects that a heartworm can have on
your Boxer.

First lets look at what heartworms are and how your dog can become infected.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes into the dog’s blood stream. The immature heartworms called microfilaria
travel through the blood stream.

The microfilaria settle into the heart chambers and major pulmonary blood vessels. This causes a blockage of the
blood flow and pathological changes to the surrounding tissues.

This blockage happens when the larvae grow into adult worms. An adult female heartworm can grow up to fourteen
inches and can live as long as five years.

A female heartworm can produce thousands of microfilariae, which is transmitted into a mosquito when it bites an
infected dog, and subsequently injected into the next dog that that mosquito dines on.

What Are The Signs That A Dog May Have Heartworms?

Usually the first system is weight loss. The dogs’ hair may become dull and brittle.

The infected dog also may tier easily.

A persistent coughs and or labored breathing.

In more progressed cases victims may vomit blood from ruptured lungs.

If the disease is not prevented or caught in time the result will be a slow painful death from congestive heart
failure.

What Do I Do If My Boxer Is Infected?

Treatment is available but it can cost hundreds of dollars, and may be ineffective depending on the degree of
infestation.

The best defense against heartworms is routine checkups with your vet. Giving your dog heartworm medication once
a month easily prevents heartworms.

Warning: You Must Have Your Dog Tested For Heartworms Before Starting Heartworm Medication!

About the Author

je Dunn has published several books on dogs and has free information all about dog training, health, and care at: www.boxerdogs-1.com/Boxer_Dogs.html Boxer Health Tips

Puppy Training
Puppies need to go to the bathroom after they play, chew, drink, eat or sleep. Start by putting them on a leash and tethering them to you. That way you can be aware of them when they start sniffing the ground (usually a cue the puppy needs to go potty). Pick them up and carry them outside. When they go potty, tell them "good potty" and give a cookie as a reward. Do not let your puppy off leash until they have finished going so they get into the habit of going potty, then playing. Many puppies will want to go outside just to play if you let them off leash first.

What if my puppy has an accident?
He will. Do not punish your puppy though. If you catch your puppy in the act then clap your hands or pick them up - this will make your puppy stop going. Get him outside FAST and let him finish up out there. Reward him for going outside. Clean up the mess with petzorb which will remove the odor completely.
Do NOT rub their nose in it, swat them with a newspaper, or isolate your puppy. It will only teach them to not go in front of you.

If your puppy is going frequently in the house you are probably not supervising them enough. Watch and learn their cues. If you feel you are watching and your puppy isn't getting it you can always have them checked for a Urinary tract infection.

If your puppy piddles when you greet them, this could be submissive urination. This would be a problem that is usually cured by ignoring the behavior and letting your puppy calm down before touching them when you first see them.

This article not only applies to puppies, but it is how you should train a dog of any age. If you can't supervise your dog, please put them in a crate to help curb accidents. Remember, dogs go where they go most!

This can be a trying time, so have patience and you will get through it.

About the Author

Amy Dunphy, CPDT is the owner and operator of the www.dogtrainersearch.comDog Trainer Search