Alaskan Malamute Complete Profile

Key Facts:

Size: Giant
Height: 58 – 71 cm (23 – 28 inches)
Weight: 38 – 56 kg (85 – 125 lb)
Life Span: 13 years
Grooming: Medium
Exercise: Demanding
Feeding: Demanding
Temperament: Sociable & loyal
Country of Origin: North America (Alaska)
AKC Group: Working

Temperament:
The Alaskan Malamute is dignified, friendly and affectionate. Alaskan Malamutes are not one-man dogs and are friendly to all. They are intelligent and able to be trained for a variety of jobs, such as guide dogs. Alaskan Malamute's make very loyal and devoted companions, but can be aggressive towards other dogs. Alaskan Malamutes have tremendous strength and stamina and therefore require an owner with experience and strength to apply the brakes.

Grooming:
The coat of the Alaskan Malamute does not require much in the way of grooming. During moulting it is best to use a coarse comb with a double row of teeth to remove dead hairs.

Exercise:
They require a great deal of exercise on a daily basis. Alaskan Malamute's need to stay on a lead unless they are firmly under control as they're liable to run off.

History:
Alaskan Malamutes got their name from a native tribe in the Artic called that Mahlemuts. Their origin is rather obscure, but it is generally believed that they have been with the eskimos for two to three thousand years. The Alaskan Indians found Alaskan Malamutes invaluable for their ability in droving, herding, hunting and hauling heavy sleds.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Hardy, compact and well-built.
Colour: Usually light grey or black and white.
Coat: The outercoat is thick and coarse and the undercoat is woolly, dense and oily.
Tail: Full and furry – carried over the back in a curved shape.
Ears: Small, upright and triangular.
Body: Powerful, well-developed, deep chest, straight back sloping gently to the hips with a very muscular loin.

Additional Comments:

Alaskan Malamutes are delightful and challenging with their extreme strength and stamina. They require training from early puppyhood to be controllable in a household situation.

Related Information of Interest:

A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For S
I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.

The funny thing about this house is that--when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.

Well, practically every other house I've ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right side--or at least on the same side as the sink.

And I'll be a monkey's uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I've walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn't instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.

This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a command--you continue to say, "come" and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.

I want your dog to be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic response--just like turning to the right instead of the left, to turn on the bathroom light.

As I've already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we're animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.

Just like our dogs.

About the Author

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: www.dogproblems.com

Boxer's and Heartworms
It is surprising how many people are still confused about heartworms and the effects that a heartworm can have on
your Boxer.

First lets look at what heartworms are and how your dog can become infected.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes into the dog’s blood stream. The immature heartworms called microfilaria
travel through the blood stream.

The microfilaria settle into the heart chambers and major pulmonary blood vessels. This causes a blockage of the
blood flow and pathological changes to the surrounding tissues.

This blockage happens when the larvae grow into adult worms. An adult female heartworm can grow up to fourteen
inches and can live as long as five years.

A female heartworm can produce thousands of microfilariae, which is transmitted into a mosquito when it bites an
infected dog, and subsequently injected into the next dog that that mosquito dines on.

What Are The Signs That A Dog May Have Heartworms?

Usually the first system is weight loss. The dogs’ hair may become dull and brittle.

The infected dog also may tier easily.

A persistent coughs and or labored breathing.

In more progressed cases victims may vomit blood from ruptured lungs.

If the disease is not prevented or caught in time the result will be a slow painful death from congestive heart
failure.

What Do I Do If My Boxer Is Infected?

Treatment is available but it can cost hundreds of dollars, and may be ineffective depending on the degree of
infestation.

The best defense against heartworms is routine checkups with your vet. Giving your dog heartworm medication once
a month easily prevents heartworms.

Warning: You Must Have Your Dog Tested For Heartworms Before Starting Heartworm Medication!

About the Author

je Dunn has published several books on dogs and has free information all about dog training, health, and care at: www.boxerdogs-1.com/Boxer_Dogs.html Boxer Health Tips

A Good Tip For Dogs With Itchy Skin
Now that summer is in full swing, many dogs are experiencing dry skin and excessive itchiness. I know that my dog, "Forbes," certainly has been! Of course, the first thing you'll want to rule out is fleas. But barring fleas, I've found that the best way to alleviate itching is to:

Splash approximately 2 Tablespoons of either vegetable oil or canola oil in your dog's food.
The additional fat will give your dog's coat a soft, shiny look and will help alleviate dry skin and itching.
You can also try an over-the-counter product you can get at most pet stores called, "Lipiderm," which works pretty much the same, but costs a bit more.
Something else you might try: One of my newsletter subscribers writes, "Best thing for itchy skin is lemons. Slice a couple of lemons in a litre of water and boil it. Let it cool down for a day then you can spray it on. Works wonders and is cheap."

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at:
tinyurl.com/4efaq