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Page and site © 2008-2009 by Andrew J. Morris All Rights Reserved
all contributed content copyrighted by the contributing author
Notice: While much of the content on this site comes from free reprint sources, not ALL articles are available for re-use. Please contact the author for permission before reprinting any content.
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Achieving Dog Training Success With The 18
A well-train dog usually leads a happier and healthier life and its owner also can enjoy a trouble-free life long companion. Dog training - basic obedience, house and potty training are therefore essential and important to a dog’s education.
The conventional method of dog training tips and guide would be to list a series of things that you should “Do” and you might even know the A-Z of dog training! But sometimes what should be done can be said best by telling what should not be done. Hope you agree with me!
This article seeks to list 18 “Don’t” when you train your dog. The reasons for the don'ts will become evident as the lessons continue and each one is based upon the distinctive psychology of the dog's mind.
1. DON'T punish your dog while you are angry or lack control of yourself.
2. DON'T punish your dog with the lead or any instrument of training or anything he should associate with duty or pleasure.
3. DON'T sneak up on your dog or grab him from the rear.
4. DON'T chase your dog to catch him; he must come to you or run after you.
5. DON'T coax your dog to you and then turn upon him with the whip. You will regret the deception.
6. DON'T trick or fool or taunt your dog. It is cruel and inconsistent to tease your dog to come to you when he can not.
7. DON'T punish a dog by stepping on his paws needlessly. They are exceedingly sensitive. Don't twist his ears playfully or otherwise. Never strike him on the backbone, in the face or on the ears.
8. DON'T grab your dog or reach for him quickly. He should never fear his master, should not be made nervous by his master, and should feel that punishment given is deserved.
9. DON'T nag your dog; don't be giving orders to him constantly; don't pester him with your shoutings.
10. DON'T praise a dog for doing a certain act, then at a later time, scold him for doing the same act. If you permit him to bite your toes today and think it fun, do not strike him for doing it tomorrow, when you are not in good humor. Consistency is a chief virtue in dog training.
11. DON'T train your dog immediately or soon after he has eaten.
12. DON'T lose patience with a puppy younger than six months. Never throw or kick a puppy nor lift him by the head or leg or skin of the neck.
13. DON'T train him in feats requiring much strength or endurance until he is at least six months old.
14. DON'T work your dog without some short rest or play periods during training. A five-minute rest for every fifteen minutes of training is desirable.
15. DON'T permit everyone to give commands to your dog. While you are training him, he must be a one-man dog, depending on you alone to feed him and care for him.
16. DON'T consider tricks the chief end or the chief part of training. Usefulness is the object sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts that spring naturally from the dog's instincts are to be fostered.
17. DON'T expect your dog to be a wonderful dog after a few weeks of training; four months to a year may be necessary in order to make the master proud of him, but the work is worth the effort. Training never ends.
18. DON'T jump to the conclusion that your dog is dumb. He may differ with you believing that the trainer should know more than the dog.
To end, try to remember these 18 Don’ts rules, enjoy training your dog and most importantly have lots of fun along the way!
About the Author
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of DogsObedienceTraining.com – The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
Related Information of Interest:
Boxer's and Heartworms It is surprising how many people are still confused about heartworms and the effects that a heartworm can have on your Boxer.
First lets look at what heartworms are and how your dog can become infected.
Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes into the dog’s blood stream. The immature heartworms called microfilaria travel through the blood stream.
The microfilaria settle into the heart chambers and major pulmonary blood vessels. This causes a blockage of the blood flow and pathological changes to the surrounding tissues.
This blockage happens when the larvae grow into adult worms. An adult female heartworm can grow up to fourteen inches and can live as long as five years.
A female heartworm can produce thousands of microfilariae, which is transmitted into a mosquito when it bites an infected dog, and subsequently injected into the next dog that that mosquito dines on.
What Are The Signs That A Dog May Have Heartworms?
Usually the first system is weight loss. The dogs’ hair may become dull and brittle.
The infected dog also may tier easily.
A persistent coughs and or labored breathing.
In more progressed cases victims may vomit blood from ruptured lungs.
If the disease is not prevented or caught in time the result will be a slow painful death from congestive heart failure.
What Do I Do If My Boxer Is Infected?
Treatment is available but it can cost hundreds of dollars, and may be ineffective depending on the degree of infestation.
The best defense against heartworms is routine checkups with your vet. Giving your dog heartworm medication once a month easily prevents heartworms.
Warning: You Must Have Your Dog Tested For Heartworms Before Starting Heartworm Medication!
About the Author
je Dunn has published several books on dogs and has free information all about dog training, health, and care at: www.boxerdogs-1.com/Boxer_Dogs.html Boxer Health Tips
7 Simple ways to safe Guard your dog this summer! If you have a hard time in summer imagine how it must feel under a fur coat! here are some simple tips to help your dog beat the heat.
1) Bob The Hair: If you have a shaggy dog like a pomeranian, Pekinese or any such variation then listen up. Your dog needs a hair cut. The hair should be cut with scissors and not shaved. Do not cut around the whiskers but you can carefully trim around the eyes.The less hair on your dog the cooler he will keep. If you have a short haired dog no need for a trim.
2) Play it cool: Food can be lighter and given before it gets hot in the morning and after it cools down in the evening.Depending on the dogs normal diet, reduce or entirely eliminate meat. Replace with soya, mashed or cooked with meat flavour. When a dog is panting give ice to lick.
3) walk on the mild side: Walks should be taken early and then again after sundown. Don't encourage chasing, fetching games too much.
4) Cool it: If you enjoy airconditioning so does your dog.If you have a cooled space share it with your pooch.
5) No closed encounters: Never leave dogs in a completely closed space. If your dog is home, Leave on the fan. In a car, leave the window partially open.
6) Let it all hang out: Dogs sweat from their tongues so never tie or muzzle the mouth in the summer. Whilst giving medical treatment see if you can hold the head rather than tying the mouth. If you have to tie the mouth be sure to release as quickly as possible.
7) Do not bathe your dog more than once a month. Soap/ Cleansers strip their skin of natural oils and lead to skin irritation. when dirty you can simply towel dry with a damp towel.
About the Author
Venkata Ramana is a Dog Lover since childhood. Visit his www.dogs-now.com/go/Boxer Dog website and discover how you can make boxer dog the happiest, loving dog alive, Running healthily with you.
Body Language Before Dog Bites Dear Adam:
After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?
Thanks, Mark.
Dear Mark:
It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:
1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.
2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.
There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.
To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
About the Author
Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at: tinyurl.com/4efaq
A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For S I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.
The funny thing about this house is that--when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.
Well, practically every other house I've ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right side--or at least on the same side as the sink.
And I'll be a monkey's uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I've walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn't instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.
This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a command--you continue to say, "come" and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.
I want your dog to be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic response--just like turning to the right instead of the left, to turn on the bathroom light.
As I've already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we're animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.
Just like our dogs.
About the Author
Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: www.dogproblems.com
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